Search Results for: walnut grandfather clocks

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Collecting Antiques

I get asked many times about what I would choose if I was starting a collection of antique grandfather clocks.  We feel privileged in helping many special customers and friends source their own private antique clock collections. The most important part if you are deciding to build your own antique clock collection is to purchase them somewhere you can get a guarantee they are genuine.  I would also take you time in building up this collection, it can not be achieved overnight.

What type of clocks to collect?

I believe the greatest antique grandfather clocks were produced between C1680 and C1820. I am now going to suggest a possible date and styles that you could choose to form this collection. It is true you might prefer a particular style of antique clock and then you could just collect this style. There is nothing wrong in doing this. You may prefer just famous London makers from the 17th and early 18th centuries like Thomas Thompion or Edward East or George Graham. I have no problem in collectors heading down this route.

Broad spectrum of clocks

A route I will suggest here is a broad spectrum of special antique clocks from the entire range of the period suggested above. The collection could be increased still further from what is listed below by different dial shapes or antique clocks from different towns also showing distinctive case features.

Examples of Interest

1)

I think it is important to start your collection with a special early example of a London marquetry brass square dial grandfather clock by a reknowned but not necessary ultra famous maker. This clock will date from around C1690 and be a good ‘8-day’ example, usually with a lentical to the trunk door.

2)

I think next on the list would be a good ‘8-day’ or ‘month’ duration English burr walnut square brass dial grandfather clock, again by a good London clockmaker.

3)

I think it is then important to source a good arch or square brass dial early lacquer clock from C1715. This again will be a London area example.

4)

A burr-walnut arched brass dial caddy top London grandfather clock is also essential to any collection. These tend to date from C1715 to C1750.

5)

A good early arched or square brass dial provincial oak grandfather clock should form part of any collection. These dating from early to mid 18th century. These will be good ‘8-day’ examples with maybe an early ‘penny’ moon feature or automaton to the arch or dial centre.

The clocks do not have to cost the earth.

6)

An early oak or maybe pine 30 hour duration clock with brass square dial would be nice in any collection.

7)

Moving on to my favourite period in antique clocks from C1760 onwards. A good C1770 London mahogany arched brass dial is vital.

8

A superb London mahogany arch white dial  ‘8-day’ grandfather clock.

9)/10)11)

Moon examples of 7 and 8 are also important to any collection, as is an automaton example.

12)

A good Manchester moonphase grandfather clock from around C1770

13)

A typical Liverpool moonphase grandfather clock from around C1770

14)

A typical Bristol tidal times moonphase mahogany grandfather clocks from around C1770

15)

A typical Hull pagoda top mahogany grandfather clock from around C1770/C1790

16)

A good Edinburgh grandfather clock from the end of the 18th century

17)

A good white dial Dundee or thereabouts mhaogany arch dial grandfather clock from C1790

18)

A good London with attached hood columns arched brass dial mahogany grandfather clock.

19)

A good London with attached hood columns square silvered brass dial mahogany grandfather clock.

20)

Various Precision Regulator examples with the differing means of pendulum compensation.

 

Conclusion

I have tried to form the basis of a wide ranging collection This could be a good tool for you to start building your own antique clock collection.  Clearly there are some great clocks from other provincial towns around the country that I have not mentioned. You can also throw in some special provincial makers like Barber or Ogden or Deacon to the mix. I suppose a wide ranging collection should encompace as many differing cabinet styles from all the areas of the UK. These may also include one from the west coast of Scotland, or Ireland, even though I am not a big fan of the typical 18th century case styles from the these areas.  This is just a personal taste though and one clock from each place as an example would not be out of place in any collection. I suppose this depends on space and finance though. I believe a minimum of 25 grandfather clocks would be required to be purchased to obtain a good overall wide ranging collection. This can then be bulked out if necessary be adding more towns or special collectible makers. Clock collecting can be quite addictive.

– Daniel Clements – Pendulum of Mayfair Ltd 51 Maddox street, London –

 

 

 

 

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How to spot fakes – a brief guide

Buying Clocks Advice

So you have finally managed to take the plunge and purchase your antique clock. There are many antique clocks available on the market but not all are original examples. There is nothing worse than spending lots of hard earned money on something that you later find out to be not what you originally thought. Regularly you will only find out something is amiss when someone knowledgeable visits your home. I have had to break bad news when asked for my comments on many occasions.

When buying an antique clock to purchase from someone you can trust. Finding someone like this is never easy. Try and find someone who is long established and are specialists in this field. Maybe they will offer you a money back guarantee. You should then have peace of mind.

Some restoration will have been carried out on all antique clocks. This should be sympathetic restoration though and not major surgery. I have devised some basic things to look out for below.

Genuine London Antique Clock C.1770

Look. Smell. Feel.

  • Probably the most common part of an antique grandfather clock to have been replaced is the base of the clock. Clocks used to stand on cold, damp floors, and many bases simply rotted away or were attacked by the dreaded woodworm. Clearly the bottom feet or plinth is an acceptable part of restoration but not the entire base section. Easy signs of new bases are when the wood does not match the trunk door. If the figuring of the wood and colour is different be-ware.

    On London and south country clocks the backboard should be old and full length. If the backboard is rotted at the bottom and stops way short of the bottom, this is something to be careful of. If the backboard has rotted away, how much of the base has been rebuilt? In North country clocks, backboards can be made in two pieces from the later part of the 18th century.

    • Style Issues

  • Movements have sometimes been replaced. Make sure the case style corresponds to the makers location. i.e. London mahogany clocks do not have swan neck pediments but dome or pagoda tops. You can look at some good reference clock books for information on what clock cases should look like for different areas of the country. Each area of the UK in the 18th century had a distinctly different style of cabinet feature. For instance London clocks do not use simple oak cases but these are either veneered in walnut, ebony, mahogany or decorated with chinoiserie.

    • Look for Spare Holes

  • Does the dial belongs to the movement? Are there any spare holes in the front plate where another dial has been ? If the clock has a brass dial, this is attached directly to the front plate. Not by means of an iron false plate. (as used on white painted dial clocks) The winding holes on ‘8-day’ clocks are well placed within the centre of the dial These do not spoil the engraving or chapter ring.

    • Dial Features

  • If the clock is an ‘8-day’ example that the clock has a second hand. 99% of all ‘8 day’ clocks should have a second hand to just below the 12 0’clock position. If there is an obvious reason why a second hand cannot be fitted like a ‘penny moon’ feature then this is OK. As a rule though ’30Hr’ clocks do not usually have second hands, and so if the clock has had a later ‘8-day’ movement fitted this is why you should wonder why there is no second hand.
  • Does the age of the movement corresponds to the age of the cabinet? All dials have dating features, for instance inside quarter divisions, type of spandrels. You can date these very easily with good reference books. English walnut cases date from the 17th century up to about 1760. Mahogany cabinets date from about 1750 onwards. Oak cabinets tend to run straight through the 17th and 18th and 19th century’s.

    • Any Packing Under Seatboard?

  • Look for any obvious packing under the seat-board that cannot be accounted for? If the seat-board is old and warped ? A small piece of packing may be necessary.
  • Prior to 1820 all English antique clocks movements should strike on a bell and not a gong. Gong striking is popular around C1900.
  • Look for rub marks from where the weights and pendulum have banged over the years. If you see 1 smooth rub on inside under trunk door and your clock has 2 weights, this is not a good sign. If there are marks on backboard far away from where pendulum is hanging, and the clock is keeping time. Ask what would have caused these marks.

    If the pendulum feather has been changed for a stiffer example, the pendulum height can change slightly This should only be a slight change.

    • Fitting Issues?

  • Investigate whether the dial fits the mask correctly and there are no large gaps. The size of glass should be similar to the size of the dial.
  • Is the face made from 1 piece of brass? This brass prior to C1800 will be cast brass and so thick and thin. The arch section of the dial should be from the same section of brass. If a square dial is later converted to an arch dial case, this is why some dials are made of two pieces.

    • Carved Cases?

  • Finally I have never seen an original fully carved pre C.1820 Longcase clock. The Victorians loved later carving GIII clocks though, and so beware buying one of these examples. Later carving would dramatically effect the clocks value.

    • Conclusion

    I wish you luck in your search. Buying from a recognized antique clock dealer may be slightly more expensive but you will get peace of mind. You should aim to get a money back guarantee that your clock is a genuine antique and a fully working example. It is easy to spend your good money buying a clock with a chequered history. Please take your time and not rush into a decision you will later regret.

    As they say an antique clock is for life and not just for Christmas. In our business we say, hard to find easy to sell. Original examples will provide you will years of pleasure and a good solid investment, Pendulum of Mayfair only sells top quality examples.